The Good 

Finally got a chance to get my hands on the Auto Tune from Dynojet for the PCV. Once you have the PCV installed (make sure you do the digital ground mod from my prior blog post) the install of the Auto Tune is fairly simple and straight forward.

As alway I recommend 1 step at a time. Make sure the PCV works fine, THEN go start working with the Auto Tune. Another word of caution: There are already way too many settings and adjustment possibilities, don't go overboard - Simplicity is often better than going crazy on too many settings.

For good results I recommend a few basic settings:

Keep the Power Commander Map in Basic mode. 500 rpm increments are way enough for 99% of the tuning needs. Stay away from Cylinder specific mapping, turn the fuel accelerator pump off and don't enable gear specific mapping.

Way too many factors that can and will make things go wrong.

The Bad & The Ugly

Having said all of that, the very first Auto Tune experience was a disaster. I had no idea how bad this bike can run. Talk about major software flaws. Dynojet Designers: Back to the drawing board. A new firmware for the Auto Tune is a must.

It looks like the Auto Tune uses way too much of its data. What do I mean with that?

When you tune a modern fuel injected engine, you often run into border cases that cannot be made perfect or the rest of the map will suffer. For example: Right when you twist the throttle, the first couple hundred milliseconds, the engine and ECU will do their dance. That's the time a good self tuner should ignore the initial data and rely on more steady engine behavior. Same for deceleration, rapid deceleration MUST be ignore as input for tuning, especially on fly-by-wire throttle systems. 

This is by the way the main reason the Auto Tune works so poorly on the VMax. It the deceleration, particularly below 4,000 rpms that makes the Auto Tune go 'Nuts'. Its when the throttle opens 3-4% during decel, to reduce engine break - data the Auto Tune should not even bother with - yet is does - hence the totally screwed up mapping output at low and part throttle.

To the Rescue!

Well if the Auto Tune does not know what to ignore or not, we will have to help it do its job - and a good job it can do, once you get the settings right.

The solution is very simple. If you have a clean map to start with, simply go to the Target AFR map and set all 0% and 2% throttle positions to 0 (zero). In addition Set the 5% throttle position from 500-4500rpm to 0 (zero). The rest you can pick to your likings.

For my initial tests I went with 14.5 for throttle positions up to and including 20% and up to 7,500 rpm - all other throttle and rpm positions I set to 13.2:1.

In case your map is not clean, make sure that you reset the throttle positions 0-5% (all rpm) to 0 (zero) in the fuel table. That will clear out any left over mistakes caused by the Autotune.

Make sure the Auto Tune is enabled and go for a ride.

In my case I went with the Stock O2 sensor simply unplugged,as the O2 eliminator plug was missing - works just fine without that plug. I set the Auto Tune to start correcting after 60 sec engine run time. Careful with that. Good measurements will take 10 min engine warm up. 

I also set the maximum trim to +-20%. This can be reduced once you have a solid map.

Here is a sample Target AFR table with the correct settings.

Once you get back from the ride, accept the trims. To make the map even better take the 10% fuel table values (1,000-4,500 rpm) and copy them into the 5% column of the fuel table. That way you get clean values that are close to perfect. 

After a few rides this evening, this is the preliminary fuel map base on the Monster Pipe, Monster Big Air, TopSpeed, EXUP Eliminator and PCV w/ Autotune:

This should give anybody with an X-Pipe and the Monster Air a good starting point. I will be refining this map over the next couple of days. 

Ride safe!