You CAN DO IT Dannie when you get frustrated just walk away think about it comeback and tackle it
a set of metric allen sockets in 1/4 drive a 3 piece extension set will really help , Do you have the service manual that
will give you some reference

I have the service manual capt bob. will look at it today when I get home. If anyone would like to be on phone call stand by for fast ? my phone # is 9108502705. Give me a shout and if u let me call u back for ? I would appreciate it. Thanks

Dannie wrote:
Okay so here I go

Your Vmax exhaust system is made up of three main components.

1. Header pipes (coming from the cylinders)
2. Catalytic converter ( cat box - big chunky, ugly thing under the bike)
3. Exhaust cans (one either side of bike)

The cat box is the main restriction (cork in vmax's ass) that is restricting performance.
So when you hear term 'midpipe' it's referring to some piping connecting the headers to the cans (replacing the catalytic converter).

There are other systems on the bike that were designed to work with your restricted system that help with noise reduction, pollution, emissions while keeping your engine preform at its peak. All those systems serve a purpose, however when you take one of the core components of your exhaust system out and replace it with something else you are making some of those systems redundant.

So to answer your question:

You don't need to repair anything when you change your midpipe.
However you need to turn off some of those systems as they no longer serve a purpose and also because they cause a few little annoying side effects.

For example: 1. When you unhook the exup servo your display and tach will show you the engine light (don't freak out) its just there to tell you to checkup on something. You can buy a little device about $80 to plug in the place of the servo and the light goes away. 1 problem gone.

2. When you take the cat away the ais system will still infuse air into the new exhaust and this will cause it to pop and be annoying. You can get some plugs and step by step instructions on how to plug the AIS here and that problem is also gone.

Then because you now have a more free flowing system your factory map is no longer valid and your bike won't run to its optimum. You can't adjust amount of air inhaled by the bike therefore you need to compensate by adding more or less fuel to make the bike run at its optimum.
To correct this you need to correct your map for the system you just bought. This is done by a way of a piggy back fuel controller such as Power Commander or MaxTunner or Bazzaz module. This allows you to adjust your fuel map and get the most power out of your new system.

You will also hear of the NashFlash or Flash V1, V2, etc ... That will take care of all of the above in a single hit for a better price and better tune with also additional few nice additions like top speed limit removal, better launch, etc ... The only thing about flash is that you have to have the right flash for the right system you bought. Tim has a few flash files, but not every combination is available

Hope this clears a few thing up for you
Kris

VmaxOz thanks for the call and the answers to all my ?'s I have some work to do when I get home.

Dannie wrote:
You are welcome Dannie. Here is some more help on what we discussed
This is a shot from the manual on page 274. I've highlighted some of the things we spoke off
The components in red are the ones you are trying to losen to get the rear headers off and also components you will re-use on your thunder max
Once you get in there and losen those bolts the cat will slip down and you will re-use the clamps and gaskets on your thundermax flanges

Components in blue is your ex-up under the fender on the right side of the bike. You can also see the cables you've disonnected
Once you get your flash back you can take this whole mechanism off and store it in a safe place

Here is a link to a thread on how to do your AIS mod.

www.starvmax.com/forum/installed-mods/13...mod-revisited#158829

When you buy the flash from Tim, I suggest you spring out another $10 for the AIS plug kit
You can assemble the plugs yourself from the HW store, but Tim makes it easy for you

The AIS mechanism is under the left scoop on the max as pictured below

Here is the plug you need to disconnect when you take off your exup servo
The exup is located under the rear fender on the right side of the bike

Take the passenger seat off (two bolts holding it on and you can see them by lifting the back support)
There are three screws holding the fender on: 1 under the passenger seat and the other two uunder the side covers (one of each side)
rst is held by clips you simply push in and then pop them out to remove. And its as simple as that

This might be worth a read Dannie if you decide to stick with Max Tuner

www.starvmax.com/forum/installed-mods/51...uner-settings-thread

Dannie wrote:
Hi Danny
I have replied to your PM today without looking at this site. I have been away for quite awhile. I think my PM gives you honest answers to your ?.
Follow the advices on this forum mate and you won`t look back. Just make sure you have the correct good quality tools to do the work.
Shit tools make it more frustrating and F@%K fasteners.
The more you do mate, the more you will like the bike. It`s a hopeless situation for us all as the mods just keep coming.
I luv it
VMAXD

capt bob wrote:
Pick up these 2 items at Harbor Freight.....makes getting to those rear header bolts ridiculously easy!

www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-14-38-and-...xtensions-67971.html

www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-38-drive-m...ocket-set-67890.html