Yamaha Star V-Max Forum :: Topic: Brakes question (6/7)

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TOPIC: Brakes question

Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 months ago #51

Okay, I didn't do comparison shots, but I have an update on one of the bleeders:

The right front bleeder, Speed Bleeder part # SB8125L, WILL NOT WORK. After bleeding the front brake line clear of air, I removed the OEM bleeder, installed and tightened the Speed Bleeder. When I squeezed the brake lever the bleeder cap blew off and sprayed brake fluid like an arterial bleed. Not good at all. Without the o-ring it appears to be a non-starter.

Back with more later

Shaun

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Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 months ago #52

Yeah you can't just remove/delete stuff with hydraulic components.. NOT a good idea!	Bad_Max OFFLINE Community Accessory Master Posts: 10001 Thank you received: 829
Lean & Mean it in every corner of your life... If it wasn't for us the fast lane would rust... V4'S are music to the seat of my pants... Get your V-Max ECU Re-Flashed to Full Power! The administrator has disabled public write access. The following user(s) said Thank You: skullmax

Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 months ago #53

Bad_Max wrote: Yeah you can't just remove/delete stuff with hydraulic components.. NOT a good idea! Helpful.	okbrown OFFLINE Gold Max Posts: 1614 Thank you received: 882
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Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 weeks ago #54

OKBROWN, any further update on the "SPEED BLEEDER"? I found this great price on DOT 5.1 (DOT 4 plus)......anyone ever use it? Found it on www.beemerboneyard.com even with shipping it comes delivered at ~ $7 for 250mL ---PeaDawg	PeaDawg OFFLINE Gold Max Posts: 1667 Thank you received: 834
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Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 weeks ago #55

tap...tap...tap....hello? is this thing on?

anyhow, I installed the Russell stainless steel brake lines and clutch line, today..... :thumbsup:

sheeet...it DOES make one heck of a difference.....good lord, what an easy improvement, should have installed them months ago (been sitting in the corner of the garage)

:punk:

I'll come back later and flush the lines when the 5.1 arrives...... (had to buy a minimum order = 4 bottles)

thanks again, STARVMAX forum....you continue to come through with great advice

PeaDawg

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Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 weeks ago #56

PeaDawg, Are the Russell Line ends steel or aluminium? I thin Mark confirmed they were steel once, but can't find that thread. Was it a tough task or did you have somebody do it for you?	VmaxOZ NOW ONLINE Platinum Max Posts: 2326 Thank you received: 1366
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Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 weeks ago #57

VmaxOZ,
It was fairly easy using a mightyvac on the bleed valves to evacuate the fluid......my only delay was the upper and lower line blocks mating just under the front of the frame.

The kinetic energy in the stainless steel lines (with the lines installed) caused me to pull the lines back out and assemble this point (with the long center bolt) first, with the Russel lines perpendicular to the forks and protruding out the right (throttle side).

This allowed the hard line fittings (coming to/from the ABS pump) to be connected easier and everything maintained proper axis orientation (avoiding stripping threads).

keeping that long securing bolt properly orientated (on axis) was easier without stress on the fittings.

Then the lines were run to thier destinations, everthing tightened down, refilled and bleed (again using the mightyvac).

It was fairly easy and would defintely go much faster the next time (as always).

the touch and grab of the brakes are amazing now, you can really feel the difference.....

I decided to change the clutch lever setting out to 1 because of the quick response(for my feel) after putting the clutch line in......that line was super easy to install.

----PeaDawg

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Re: Brakes question 2 years 2 weeks ago #58

PeaDawg wrote:

tap...tap...tap....hello? is this thing on?

anyhow, I installed the Russell stainless steel brake lines and clutch line, today..... :thumbsup:

sheeet...it DOES make one heck of a difference.....good lord, what an easy improvement, should have installed them months ago (been sitting in the corner of the garage)

:punk:

I'll come back later and flush the lines when the 5.1 arrives...... (had to buy a minimum order = 4 bottles)

thanks again, STARVMAX forum....you continue to come through with great advice

PeaDawg

Sorry Darel,

For sure the right front bleeder won't work with a speed bleeder in it's place. The o-ring on our stock bleeder is there for a reason. I still haven't tried the fit of the clutch bleeder since I've had clutch issues and needed to be able to bleed it at any time. I assume it will work since it's the same size as the left front bleeder and the Speed Bleeder worked there. The clutch is the hardest to do since it's in the least convenient spot. The rear bleeder didn't work either. So essentially the left front and clutch (Speed Bleeder SB8125) appear to be the only two that fit.

I believe if you're wanting to go above DOT 4 you'll definitely need the DOT 5.1. It's boiling point is MUCH higher. Watching Motorweek last Saturday I watched Pat Goss say how badly DOT 5 foams up in ABS systems, so it's 5.1 only. The DOT 5 wouldn't be compatible with the lines and seals either.

DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoided a lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid.

As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT 4 fluids.

Advantages:

It provides superior performance over all the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4 or even DOT 5. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C).

It is compatible with all rubber formulations.

It is completely compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 making an upgrade from either easy..

Disadvantages:

It will absorb water.
It will eat paint.
It is more difficult to find for sale, typically at very few auto parts stores. Try NAPA #NBF51012
It is mildly more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4.

It is NOT compatible with Dot 5 whatsoever and should never be mixed. A safe swtich from DOT 3/DOT 4/DOT 5.1 to DOT 5 requires a complete flush of the braking system and a change of all seals in the hydraulic system.

Shaun

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WHERE'S TED?? Ride Commandment: Thou shalt not pass the ride leader (unless you know where you're going). Friends don't let friends leave the ride, without a map or GPS.

2009 VMax
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Last Edit: 2 years 2 weeks ago by okbrown.

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Brakes question 1 month 2 weeks ago #59

THis morning driving into work and coming off the highway, my rear brakes stopped working. Luckily the front brakes still work, any ideas...suggestions?? Im at work so i dont have time to go through hundreds of threads.	carriong OFFLINE Fresh Max Posts: 46 Thank you received: 2
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Brakes question 1 month 2 weeks ago #60

Is it a 1989 Vmax? Does it have brake fluid in the reservoir? Is there brake fluid on the rear wheel anywhere? Not much to go on there..	No_Max NOW ONLINE Platinum Max Posts: 2728 Thank you received: 2128
Lean & Mean it in every corner of your life... If it wasn't for us the fast lane would rust... V4'S are music to the seat of my pants... Get your V-Max ECU Re-Flashed to Full Power! The administrator has disabled public write access.