PeaDawg wrote:
P/D. What say you. Are they worth it?

I've only got 300 miles on the E3.38's and I see no issues, so far.

(I had hoped to road trip it to Sturgis and back....but I cancelled out at the last moment)

Because I NASHed, BROCKed and E3'd at the same time I can't tell if the plugs contributed to the massive increase VMS or not.

VMS = VMax Smile

----PeaDawg

LOL. I hear ya. Due to your insatiable need for power and the recent mods to attempt to satisfy your cravings, there is no way you can give us a seat of the pants, or as you say it "VMS" evaluation. What to do??? Iridium’s? E3's? This calls for some and a thinkin'.

Had the E3's in for about 800 miles…….I have not noticed any difference between the NGK's and the E3's.

Doug

I've done this to a few of my bikes it works most of the time the most hp i ever got from it was about 5.

I have been watching this thread and I guess I will throw in my 2 cents and ask a question at the same time. I cannot speak about "indexing" which to me makes perfect sense and I am certain will result in some improvement if done properly. I used to work feverously on my old MOPAR and in the '90's I was hot on the Splifire plugs for a while with the two-pronged electrode and after that the Accel U-Groove (cheaper than the Splitfire with same idea) and I noticed some noticeable difference. The reoccuring answer I got from people in the know that I consulted was that a "super" spark plug that boasted multiple electrodes or some other similar gimic usually will compensate for another aspect in the ignition system that is lacking. Once installed, if it shows a marked improvement, it is either correcting the poorly performing spark plugs that it replaced or another ignition system deficiency such as a weak coil, bad wires, or some other non-diagnosed issue. I later converted my MOPAR to a totally electronic ignition by MSD and got nice results. That being said, my question to the group is, "Would aftermarket high powered coils do a better job of a more complete fuel burn, and if so, do they exist for the VMax?"

Chas (98Vmax)

98Vmax, take it all for what it's worth but... the reason for splitting the electrode is to make the firing area smaller, or to offset the spark to make it closer to the air / fuel mix. The smaller the firing area the higher the voltage potential at that area making it easier to spark.

Same concept as an iridium plug. Side by side, same plug, same gap, but with a smaller center electrode the smaller one will provide more energy via a longer duration spark into the spark process because it will fire easier due to higher voltage potential at the tip. The negative is that there is less surface area. Generally, the area with the highest fuel concentration will spark first and a larger potential spark pad will help out but this sacrifices spark duration.

Generally, newer engines that do a good job of mixing A/F don't require a bigger pad, but benefit from a longer spark burn time. From engine to engine each will respond differently to different plugs.

Super spark plugs also commonly work by removing the internal resistor so you have higher current into the spark process. This will also increase spark duration and energy into the gap. The pro's are higher power into the spark process, the cons are that without the resistor there is more ignition noise which might cause electronic gremlins if not compensated for.

My opinion, and knowledge, in answering your question. Yes and no. Spark plugs can compensate for other components that are lacking, but they also do have the ability to increase energy into the spark process even if your components are 110%.

Hope the info helps, have a great day.

Are the plugs easier to get at with all the cover crap and air box base out of the way?

AS I remember, it's super easy if you take out the battery and battery box...no doubt about it.

Remaxed wrote:
Yes, battery box should/must come out. Air box can stay. Taking the left side radiator hose off the radiator as well is very helpful......I used a bungee tied to the handlebar to pull it up to keep the leaking of coolant to a minimum.....it will still dump a pint or so when you disconnect it so have some rags at the ready.

Go back in this thread and look at the procedure as I described it, I that is the best approach (IMO).

Still not a walk in the park....but not to bad with some patience.