I`m just fitting the Exactrep 40mm lowering kit to Max. Front and rear.
For comparision, the OEM rear is on the left, new one on the right
The unit appears to use all OEM externals with their own spring and internals (I think). The only visible difference is the tighter spring windings at the bottom, all else identical from same maker it appears. I am retaining my 1 inch drop link and will see what happens with the 240?

Vmaxd, is it me or is the factory spring thicker than the aftermarket spring, if so then you could possible buy a thinner spring and do the same thing yes maybe or I don't know.

Dannie

Dannie the OEM original spring is 13mm thick. The Exactrep is 12mm thick. So you are correct
It looks to me that they have purchased OEM and changed the spring? I am not sure what if anything has been done internally?
I havn`t change the front fork coil springs yet so can`t give you any measurement differences.
I`m not sure where I am going with this as I have retained the UFO 1 inch drop link? with the 240 rear wheel.
I am trying to set MAX up to my own requirements for the strip. I am not much interested in twisties and road riding anymore, as I can`t afford to lose further demerit points. My business will not function if I have no licence.lol

P.S. It is an expensive mod. I hope I get the results I want

I wonder if you could just buy the spring and install it on the factory shock. If they are the same length but shorter when installed then the spring is weaker to allow for it to lower the bike down by a 1in to 1.5ins.
I thought about the same concept but in the opposite direction. Get the 2in lowering link from UFO and get a heavyer duty spring from Barons. 1000lb spring, that way you could be 2ins lower and the stiffer spring would allow for you not to bottom out. Just my 2cts.

Let us know how the front springs are as I thing the max is to high off the ground front and back.

Dannie

VMAXD,

Is this the Yamaha Factory aftermarket lowering kit, or is it something that H at Exactrep has developed?

I received my Yamaha Factory lowering kit right before I moved from Germany, but I have not installed it yet.

How would you rate the degree of diffculty of the install? On a scale of 1 to 5 with 1 being a massive P.I.T.A and 5 being simple project.

Thanks!

-Lee-

-Lee- wrote:
Lee, it's five or six Bolts more Work than replacing the Tank.

On my Scale, it would be 1.1 with the Tank you got.

-Lee- wrote:
I purchased mine from Exactrep. But as I said prior, all the parts appear OEM except for the spring.I havn`t a clue if they have changed internals(yet).
Depending on your spanner experience it can be difficult first time or reasonably easy? Idealy you need a hoist to get the bike up to waist level and then have a hydraulic jack to lift the bike to the full extent. (That is rear wheel just off the hoist). Next is dismantle the exhaust including the cat converter or X-pipe. You can then have access to jack the frame up to clear the rear wheel. From here I have changed the drop link before easily. But this time I had the fuel tank out to change the complete shock assembly.It was very easy but the hydraulic jack is essential for small adjustments to get the first bolt out easily with no damage.
Hope that helps. There is not much space in there but correct tools make it a piss of piss.
Rating 2.5
VMAXD

My yamaha dealer is having a hard time just to install the lowering link I have. Twice so far it has taken 2hrs each time and he can't figure it out. I would like it on but I don't know what to do. Yamaha is talking about a day to get it right and they may have to pull the swingarm. So go figure.

Dannie wrote:
Dannie,
You don't have to pull the swingarm...

Now, I may get slammed for the next comment but here goes nothing...

You need to pull the both seats (rider and passenger), rear fender (upper and inner), rear sub-frame, gas tank, so that you have a good "open" view of the relay arm and link...then you need to pull the OEM link, install your lowering link and reverse the process...

I know, I know...there was one person in the past that said that it could be done without pulling ANY parts off and that the link could be exchanged from the side...never did see any pictures or videos of that actual job so, I wonder if it is possible or even worth the extra effort...doing it the way that I explained above takes less than 4 hours once you have done it a few times and at most 8 hours the first time...ok...I will add IMHO...

BTW...I have since purchased the K&L Fat Max scissor lifter with the GEN2 V-Max adapter, in place of the red scissors jacks shown in the picture, which makes the lifting process a lot more stable and quicker to do...

Art