Well, this is my first true mod. 3 days old - the bike that is - and it had to shed various layers to expose its inner being.

Lets start from the end:

Here is how a 12k HID kit looks like. Compare the color to the top running light (regular light bulb - will be replaced with a white or blue LED)



This is the kit that will get you there. IMPORTANT - You want one of those super slim and Hi/Low kits. Many cheaper kits only offer low beam and if they are not super slim, they might come with very bulky HW that is very hard to fit onto an MC.



When ordering, pick the color you like. You need an H4 bulb type to fit the VMax stock headlight housing.

Once you open the HID box, this is pretty much the content:



Since it is a car kit by design, it comes with 2 bulbs as well as the wiring for two head lights. Great spare parts for me.

The bulb install is fairly simple and straight forward. Simple take off the rubber dust cover from the OEM bulb, loosen the spring and remove the stock bulb, and install the HID bulb. It is slightly longer than a regular bulb. But fits nicely into the headlight housing.



The tricky part of the install is the cabling as well as to find spots where to install the high frequency - high voltage module, as well as the hi & low beam controller.

Took some R&D to figure out where to mount them best and how to run the wires to get there.

In the end I decided to hide the two small electronic boxes inside the air scoops, between some of the other equipment that is already there.

Underneath the right side scoop I ended up installing the Hi/Low beam controller. There are existing brackets and enough space:



The wirering is a bit tricky at first but in the end it was not so tough after all. The extra cabling runs from the headlight to the frame just like the rest of the OEM wires and disappears into the frame through the main openings in the neck.

On the left side I decided to hide the high frequency/high voltage box:



With the electronic placed you need to run the wires. Some will need to go from box 1 to box 2 through the neck of the frame - can get a little bit tricky.

The whole setup only took 1 solder joint for an extended + battery hookup. The rest was pretty much plug and play.

If you like HID and deep blue colors, this might be for you.

Good luck!

Oliver, why didn't you get rid of the relay Box. You could simply run the Hi/Low Signal to the "Bulb" from the stock Bulb Connector. This supplementary Relay Box is only to ensure full Battery Power to the HID Balast.

Good job on the install FX looks good

FSX.....this looks cool as hell. After I recover from the bike purchase...this I will add this to mine also...is the level of light MUCH increased? Is there a large increase in the heat level inside the lamp housing? I don't know much about these lights...

There is Less Heat, because the Bulb takes only 35 W.

Usually, there is a huge Gain in light Output. With the high Color Temperature Oliver has chosen, it will not be that much more in Comparison with the H4 Output, but the Look of that Light is very special.

Thanks for the info...It has been added to my XMAS list...The cost of this upgrade???

See fxstein's first Post, he paid 134,95 on Ebay for the Car Kit.

I have a 4300K Bulb in my 1Gen, i'd go that Temperature or even lower 3400K. They burn down in Color anyway over Time.

Squeeze wrote:
Oliver, why didn't you get rid of the relay Box. You could simply run the Hi/Low Signal to the "Bulb" from the stock Bulb Connector. This supplementary Relay Box is only to ensure full Battery Power to the HID Balast.

The relay is to insure no "flicker" and extend bulb life..