Gentlemen, hold your Horses please !

From my Point of View, after reading Ken's Clarification i found nothing to critisize on Ken's Statement in this or the other Thread and i truely admire Red Dirt's tinkering and as he stated, it might not be for everyone.

However, I DO believe that those Folks who actually took the Plunge and go get something moving, should not get into heavy Discussion or a Fight over one or another Issue at all. We have had this here with hilights360/T. Nash/Vmax-Guru and we all, including himself already lost a Wealth of Informations and Ideas due to the now missing Discussion.

I really love the stacks Oliver has designed for individual K&N filters but........

I want some right now! I don't have a lathe so I decided to assemble my cheap version with a little Southern Engineering (aka Presidential Innovation).

Here's the easy way: Go to your local aluminum supplier and have him cut 4 pieces of 2"o.d. x .063 aluminum tubing 2" long (about $2.00 ea). Be sure to de-burr these aluminum rings on each end and with a small rotary stone and driver/drill "sharpen" the inside of the tube on each end to remove the step. Mount a K&N filter #RD-0510 on each one ($30.95 ea plus shipping). Remove the YCCI uppy downy thing from the air box--just snap up the instrument cluster, remove the center bolt that the air box screws down to and that will allow you to move it slightly right and off.

Now just push the filter/tube assembly you have made firmly into the bottom stack(s). They fit exactly. The K&N's are 3.5" dia. x 5" tall. When you replace the instrument cluster, that will fit directly on top of the filters, holding them in place. When you put the hood back on that also serves to hold the filters in place. This won't work with shorter filters.

Caution: If you look closely you'll see tiny holes in the stacks at the bottom of the pan, probably to suck in the small amount of moisture or oil that might collect in the sealed pan. Removing the air box opens the filter area to the elements. In the event you are caught in a heavy downpour or in the unlikely event you might leave your Max out in the weather you could collect water in the filter pan which could then drip down into the intake--not good. I put a small dab of silicone on the outside of these holes and also drilled 4 drain holes in the bottom of the pan.

You now have almost 12 times more filter area than stock--and when Mr.Max winds up the sound is awesome!!

You have not lost the ram air effect because THERE IS NO RAM AIR on this bike. That's just another Yamama sales pitch. Look behind the scoops at all the stuff that is crowded in there. To have ram air the scoops would have to be sealed from the front openings to the air box and you'd probably have to reach 200 mph to have any affect. Now you can hide stuff in there like a relay, a Glock, etc.

You have not lost anything when you removed the YCCI. Another fake sales promotion. When it is installed it just restricts the air flow and when it "electronically opens" it has a servo that raises the top venturi abruptly at 6500 rpm allowing the kick in the butt that replaces the Gen 1 V-boost. If you like that little kick, then leave it on and use an airbox filter. I want that kick at 3500 rpm and up.

I don't yet have access to a dyno but the bike feels more responsive at all speeds with the individual filters. Next comes a pipe and fuel manager.

Schifty is running this setup and loves it.. There can't be much difference between it & the Big Air kit