VmaxOZ wrote:
Yes that is the Kit.... www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=237
You should call/eMail and tell them you need to long wires.
Matt's eMail address is:

< This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. >

Also make sure you remind him that the bike harnesses needs 5 pin relays so that the High beam will work.

G3M1N1 wrote:
Thanks mate.
I fired him an email today based on captBob's thread Here:
www.starvmax.com/forum/installed-mods/12...projector-hid#121003

And mentioned that there were relay problems with high beam and that I wanted to mount the Balast further away from the headlight which should hint at the longer extension wires

Did you guys order the 50w or the 35w Balasts? 35w tend to last longer and draw less power, but 55w produce about 1000lumens more at same kelvin rating. I usually go for the 35w on my cars, but with a single projector this might not be enough?

Yes Kris you need to get it right the first time , I think I have the smaller ballast with the 21 inch ? Harness , the hi beam is very cool
And a must have , the 6 Kelvin was just right for me , just remember throw logic right out the window on this install I know you are meticulous Kris that will be in your favor one thing when you mount the bulb you must line it up by eye for level the slots for the standard build will miss align it I used a couple drops of epoxy to lock it in place before I put the threaded ring on , and don't forget your Chefs hat for you will be baking your headlight to soften the mastic to pry it apart that's the logic part but it's no biggie

New member Trevor will be doing this mod as well so post up all ya get their are I think 5 of us how did it and the shared input will
Make it a cinch Prob Joey and Dinan will be able to share on it too as well as the groundbreaker Johnnie

I picked mine up from Matt right after Johnnie and didn't get the right relay for the high beam. i've been riding for a long time now without highs, it sucked. I hate taking that headlight off but since you guys craked this topic back up I e-mailed Matt to send me the 5-pin relay Johnnie spoke of. I had actually forgot what the problem was until Johnnie told you to make sure to ask for it. Thanks again Johnnie.

D just take the left side bolt out and loosen the right you can get to the bulb without fully taking the headlight off you just have to rotate it
To get the plug off easy peasy

Thanks Bob, I'll give it a try. I always took it totally apart so I didn't scratch anything up.

I am still very nervous about baking the headlight. Never attempted this before. Not so much about the retrofitting itself.
I don't want to be dealing with water issues or condensation inside the lens after the install.

Is the baking as simple as preheating the oven to 250F and baking the headlight for 10 min?
How do you get a grip on the hot headlight with your mittens while using screwdrivers to pry it apart? Sounds messy!
Still not very clear how you guts aligned the beam.
Is it as simple as putting the bike on a flat surface at night and matching it to your car's level?
How do you adjust the projector once you seal the lens back on?
Why isn't the projector holding the bulb aligned Bob? Why do you need epoxy to hold it in place? It don't sound right?

I am sure I forgot a few more questions.

BTW: Still have no reply from Matt. Hope his email is still valid.

Piece of cake Kris ha ha , actually 275 degrees i think for 8 minutes although i had to reheat mine twice
it's no biggie seems a little odd though , I found a real thin and flexible preferably and old table knife with a rounded tip
or two thin but flexible putty knifes work well i think Darryl used kitchen / table knives i had a very thin putty knife it worked well but you need 2 one to pry a little and one to hold it while you get another point of entry once you get it started you will see it's a mastic like putty that becomes flexible with heat i was really taking my time that is why i heated mine twice and dont worry you can seal it up fine it's not a sealed beam so it's already exposed to air where the bulb goes in so no condensation worry about you can work the putty back into shape and you reassemble with a heat gun and the 4 screws pull it together , I used thin leather gloves and folded a beach towel on the kitchen counter and went to work
the alignment will come with the adjustment screw on the right side of the headlight i used a long extension and i think a 4 mm allen 1/4 in drive thats the last thing you do , you need to level the bulb if you look at a replacement standard bulb for the Max you will see 2 tabs they align in the socket to keep the bulb straight with the HID you must align the bulb it's quite easy you just eyeball it use the cutoff as a guide then i asked my son to look as well you can see it from the front and the back so it's easy to judge i used the epoxy to keep it that way while i assembled it it's just a little different than the stock one thats all Kris , I would rate it easier than changing the Alternator case for the OTEC .
I will fire off an e mail to him as well i wanted to say hi anyway I set up that % off way back when it's mentioned in the
original post as well as the price hopefully thats still valid.

Anyone who has done this installation the above is all from memory so if you have anything to add please speak up
Trevor is doing this mod in the next week or so too so more info is good for all.

Bob is right, very easy set up. I only used one butter knife and pryed it apart and it came right off after the over phase. I didn't use any new putty/glue to reinstall and I've never had any condensation at all. There are two adjustment screws in the rear of the lens. the one on the Right (while sitting on the bike) adjust horizontally and the one on the left adjust vertically. I sit on the bike in the road with a car approx two car lengths in front of me and had a friend adjust the lens just below the top of the trunk. He moved the car to se how much light distance I had. Unfortunately I couldn't get it high enough for the distance I wanted without shinning into the cars rearview mirror. So I'm a little lower than I like. It's still much better than stock though.
I mailed Matt and he responded today. He said he didn't think the 5 pin relay worked for Johnnie. I told him it did. They have a new harness made just for bikes that fixes the high/lowbeam issue but it cost $35.

Kris if Matt has a problem shipping to you i will take care of that if needed just let me know when he contacts you

An extra 35 bucks is a givin the hi beam is worth it , I took my adjusting tool and went riding and made a few stops after
judging height on several smaller cars i set it just below the side view mirrors on a Corolla , D when you set yours up you had your bike set pretty low in the front too.