I can't seem to figure out how to remove the rear turn signals so that I can re-use them on a fender eliminator kit. I want to keep all wiring intact without splicing, and I don't want to break any of the plastic on the turn signal mounts. Any tips would be appreciated!

There is a plastic insert where the wires enter the turn signal. This expands the rubber turn signal stem in place. Lift the two rubber tabs holding the plastic insert and then slide it back on the wires. force the turnsignal stem out of the holes. Warming it with a hair dryer will make it pop out easier.

if u don't want to splice any wiring you'll have to get to the factory connectors...

this will unfortunately require removal of the entire rear fender for access...

you'll need to allow close to an hour (min) for this... whole bunch of reusable plastic rivets to remove in addition to the passenger seat...

have fun...

Thanks you guys for the heads up. There's no way to unplug the turn signal wires from the harness without completely taking apart the rear fender??

someone on the site said they were able to... i'm not sure how, though...

pull the passenger seat and get a flashlight... look low on the starboard side nearest the tail and see what u think

they use a weird triangular connector as i remember...

whoever did it must wear toddler gloves & have a whole bunch of patience...

ynot1115 wrote:


Unless that person extended the wiring so that the connectors could be placed right where the hole is under the passenger seat, there is NO way that, that is possible...

But it's no big deal pulling the rear fender...just take the passenger seat off (don't drop the two allen bolts when reassembling the seat, else you'll be pulling the rear fender back off and worse case, pulling the gas tank and the rear sub-frame), take the three chrome colored allen bolts off (one on top, one on each side up forward and the eight plastic rivets to remove the rear fender...then just disconnect the connector for the turn signals and do whatever you have to do...

Total disassembly and assembly takes less than 10 minutes once you get use to it...

The turn signal use triangular color coded connectors so no one can FU the reconnection...well...almost no one...I would think...but then again, I have seen some weird stuff happen...

On the disassembly of the turn signals...there is a small aluminum clip looking thing way inside the shaft of the turn signal assembly...because of that clip, there is no way to pass the triangular color coded connector thru it...you have three choices...

1) Pull the pins out of the connector, pass the wires/pins thru the clip and repin the connector

2) Cut the wiring, pull the wires thru the clip and then solder/heat shrink the wires back together

3) Cut the clip with a pair of side cutters, pull the wires out of the clip, do your thing and then put the wires back into the clip and reshape the clip flat

No.2 is probably the best but No.3 works fine as the clip sits flush way down inside the turn signal assembly and really serves no purpose other then as a holder under a metal plate that is held in with a screw to hold the clip in.

Now that I have TOTALLY confused everyone...print this out and you will see what I am talking about and maybe thank me later for being such a pain the ass in writing this...

I wish someone had written it for me on this and many many other things...

One sentence bullet statements just don't make it...if that were the case, the Yamaha Service Manual would work just fine...problem with it is that some Foreigner living in Japan that had absolutely NO technical knowledge, took the Japanese manual transcript and translated into English...how would I know this...because I did that crap for a while for Electronic Service Manuals, until I was told by some pin-head in charge of making foreign language versions of the manufacturer's manual, that he couldn't understand what I was writing ...because he too had absolutely NO technical knowledge...so the next time you have the service manual or user's manual out, trying to fit a round slug into a square hole...picture the idiots that translated those manuals...

And just for the record...I don't want to hear from any Yamaha or Star Motors "kiss asses", I mean supporters...the truth is the truth...live with it...

CV, great tips on removing the rear fender/wiring issue. This greatly helps, as you stated, the manual greatly leaves alot to the user's imagination. My question tho, is removing the rear fender needed to fit a fender eliminator when using the stock turn signals? I guess what I'm asking, is, can yo not just remove the passenger seat, clip the wires then pull them through. unbolt the license plate assembly/fender extender from under the rear fender via the 4 bolts, and be done with it?? Sorry for the questions, I have no problem with mechanics, but I hate cutting or pulling stuff apart on such a new and expensive bike like this. Humor me for now, I know that attitude isn't shared with many, by the awsome mods and accessories installed on some of the bikes on here. It's tough for me yet to pull stuff apart on this beauty. I love the look of the cleaned up rear, but dread cutting wires and such.

BadMax wrote:


BadMax,
The first time, you have to pull that rear fender, in order to get to the turn signal connectors and wiring...you can not get to it from the hole underneath the passenger seat...

I can think of one other way thru the right hand side side cover but it would be 99.99999% impossible to cut and pull the turn signal wires out thru the rear wire way and then trying to fish it back in to solder or connect the wires back in...

I know you are worried about disassembling the rear fender but it really isn't that difficult...just take your time...

You will need a 5mm hex for the two forward bolts holding the passenger seat on (Caution: don't drop the bolts) a 4mm Hex for the two forward side bolts and one top rear bolt on the rear fender and finally a pointy end tool like a jeweler's screw driver to push the center pin of the eight black plastic rivets...once those center pins are pushed in, you can take your finger nails to pull out the rivets...

Then grab the forward side sections of the rear fender and as you pull them outwards slightly, pull up on the fender and it will come off of the bike...put it aside for now...

On the right hand rear side of the sub-frame, you will see 4 connectors of different colors and styles (left and right turn signals, brake light ass'y and license plate light)...anyway, you will need to disconnect and pull back all of those cables going to the "Whale Tail" assembly...the tail light assembly cable can stay connected...

You will need to cut the cable tie that has a rubber hose on it and it is used to cable tie all of those cables to the sub-frame...

Take that pointy tool or jeweler's screw driver used previously and gently pull up on the little tab on each of the three connector to pull apart the connector from the mating connector on the main harness side of the cabling...

Ok...now just fish the cables back out between the sub-frame and tail light assembly...you may have to loosen the "Whale Tail" assembly from the sub-frame with a 10mm Socket underneath the inner rear fender...

You can now unbolt the whole "Whale Tail" assembly...

Then you can do whatever it is you are doing and then reassemble the new "Short Tail" to the sub-frame/inner fender...and retrack thru the disassembly steps....

Now since you went thru all of this, you COULD cut and extend the cables so that the connectors are located under the passenger seat but as you will know by this point, there would be no need to do so as you still would not be able to fish the cables in/out anyway...you still need to pull that rear fender...

If you make it this far, you will realize that it is so easy...why bother with extending the cables...

If you run into a problem, let me know...

Art

Art,
Thanks tons for this in depth tutorial. I am very anal, and I still have the old school mentality that once you take something apart, it never goes back together as well as it was. However, I do really like the clean look of the rear fender, and the only reason I haven't made the plunge, was the wiring cuttin and taking plastic apart. I will be attempting this soon. Going to the motorcycle show in Chicago next week, so I'm sure I'll be eager to do this when I get back!!! Still trying to decide which eliminator kit is the best out there. I want it to look factory installed. Thanks again!!!!!
Jack

Well, bought the fender kit from one our members on EBY, so just have to wait for it's arrival and then jump in!! I'm supposing I will want the wide wheel conversion after the fender eliminator kit is installed. My wife aske me the other day, "Does it ever end?" I replied with a mathmatical and well thought out reply: "No."
Thanks for the much needed info!!