Not sure how many freebie Gen1 questions a Gen2 owner may inquire on, but I'm almost sure it's my first one!

Here it is:
2002 with 13,000 - this year on start-up the idle was very low and sounded like the bike had a high lift cam installed. Bumped the idle up to 1000 RPM and ran the bike on a short run. Idle raised above the set point so I backed it back down to 1000 RPM again. Figured just bad gas!

Took the bike out today and remembered why I kept it. Ran as good as it ever did and still bounces off the pavement between gears. No problem noticed at all except when idling at a stop. Seems like it barely wants to run but doesn't cut out. Tach barely moves off of 1000 RPM but can really hear it. Don't get it, sounds mean with the Supertrapps though. What's up?

I had some Yamaha "Ring Free Fuel Additive" that I never used and was still sealed. So I added about an ounce to the fuel. This stuff was pretty thick! Anyone ever use this before? Seemed to me it would be about the same viscosity as the fuel!

Never ran into this idle situation before and been ruuning Maxes 20 years. My go to "Ace" Yamaha shop is 3 hours away! They turned it into the beast it is by fine tuning it about 5 years ago.

Help me out Gen1 experts!

Ken

I would try a couple of SeaFoam treatments. Follow the directions on the can. It could be a partially plugged idle circuit. Also - I was always pleasantly surprised how much smoother my Gen 1's would run after a carb sync, your Max may be due for one.

If you want that high lift cam sound lock open the v-boost so it will draw from two carbs at the bottom and mid range also. I never really under stood why any one keeps the v-boost system stock except for syncing the carbs. It's something you can do yourself in about 10 minutes. You will have a lot more low end and mid range power with it opened up. It won't feel like the same bike. That lumpy idle comes from additional fuel not the cams. Kind of like the difference you would hear in the old tri power carbs on the early chevy 327,s when you hooked up the two additional carbs.

Mark... Thanks for the tip on SeaFoam, I'll get a can!

On the carb sync..I would like to do this myself! Anyone done it and what do I need?

Maxout... The v-boost lock, is this different than the T-boost? If so, what is involved please? Oh yeah BTW, I remember the tri-power days, I could never get the progressive linkage quite right where I wanted it....didn't matter though, couldn't keep a tranny behind it anyhow! Cluster gear would end up being clustered in pieces!

Ken

T-Boost is a worthless mod in my opinion. It has the vboost trying to open and close when at cruising speeds in town. Just screws thing up. You want to put a switch on it that will either let you run it at the stock setting or hold it in the full open position.

The quick meathod to lock it open is as follows:

Pull the left fake scoop off and look for the round conector (approximately 1" diameter.) Separate the connector then put it back together just enough to make contact again so it can be quickly separated. Have some one turn the key on and you will hear and see the v-boost linkage cycle open and close. (Look between the carbs)

Have some one turn the key on again and when the linkage has cycled to full open separate the round conector before it begins to close again. This will keep the boost valve open. Ride it and see if you like it. If you like the way it feels then pull the air filter box and wire the linkage in the full open position.

It will stay open on its own as long as the round conector is separated however over time may slowly start to close up on you again. (hence the need for wire) or you can just perform the unplug procedure again if it starts to close down on you. (leave the round connector diconected)

After you lock the boost valve open you may need to adjust the idle slightly. Don't mistake the carb sync screws for the idle adjuster. The idle adjuster is a round knob between the carbs on the left side.

When you need to sync the carbs the boost valve will need to be allowed to close before this adjustment is done.

If you have the stock exhaust system and want to make it sound much better, drill out the five rivits on the plate around the exit hole on each muffler outlet. remove the plate and enlarge the five holes to approximately 3/8 to 1/2 inch. The larger the holes the louder it gets so start small and work your way up in size until you achieve the volume you desire. Pitch the plate that you removed. Wire brush the end of the pipe and dress it up with some black hi temp header paint.