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The descriptions provided in here are for entertainment purposes only. www.starVmax.com does not endorse nor recommend do-it-yourself service and maintenance unless performed by an experienced technician. Use your own judgement to determine if you are capable to perform such tasks. www.starVmax.com cannot be held responsible for any incidents or injuries as a result of incorrect or improper service and maintenance.

TOPIC: New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures

New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #1

Got some time today while watching our doughther sleep, to do my first oil change. Here is a little writeup of what it takes and how to do it right (hopefully... B) ).

Here is what you need to get started (aside from you New VMax):

6 quarts of Yamalube 10W40. Same as the oil it comes with from the factory. Above 1500+ mile you can switch to Yamalube 15W50 Full Syn or equivalent. Do not use automobile synthetic oils that contain anti friction additives, as the clutch is a wet clutch that is submerged in oil. Friction additives can make it slip.

In addition you will need a new oil filter. Either get the one from Yamaha or (I prefer) the K&N303. The same filter used on all late model Yamaha's and Star's. You can get it at most motorcycles accessories places.

Last but not least make sure you have a handful of crush washers (seals). Every time you open the drain bolt, remove the old seal and put on a fresh one. It will prevent oil leaks and helps with torquing the drain bolt to spec. A worn washer can lead to leaks and to over tightening of the drain bolt, which in return can break the oil reservoir pan. These washer are 50c - $1. Don't skip them.

In addition you will need an oil funnel, a drain pan, a 17mm socket with a 5-10" extension (just to make it easy), as well as a wrench or oil filter adapter to remove the original oil filter.

Whole procedure takes about 30 min.

Here is picture of the supplies you will need:

starVmax-7986d48cf97400861cf4de2e5980d88c.jpg


To start you want to fully warm up the engine. Go for a ride or let it run until the fan comes on. That way the oil is hot and will drain very well and much quicker. Once hot you can perform the hole procedure step by step.

Now we drain the oil. Make sure the bike is level - use a proper stand or lift to hold the bike securely in place. There is practically no place under the bike to allow you to jack it up, don't attempt to put a lift under the exhaust pan, you would crush it under the weight of the bike.

The good news is there is only one drain bolt on the left side of the bike, at the bottom of the oil pan. Place a suitable container underneath it and open the drain bold with the 17mm socket at the end of an extension. That way you don't make a mess and the oil heads straight into you container. Once the drain bolt is removed the oil will drain very quickly. To aid in the draining you might also want to open the oil filler cap on the right side above the clutch.

This is the drain bolt you need to open:



Again to make it easy to find - again this bolt is on the left side of the bike:



Once all the oil is drained you re-install the drain bolt. Before doing so make sure you replace the worn crush washer. To do so use a little flat screwdriver to pry off the used seal/washer:



The washer is used on pretty much all late model Yamaha's and Star's, just that some cruisers require 3 of them - for 3 separate drain bolts - not so with the VMax - one will do:



You can tell the difference when comparing the fresh washer with the old one from the prior pictures:



The new washer will create a perfect seal and does help with proper torque. Even without a torque wrench you can feel the amount of crushing and a sudden increase of torque when the wasker is flat. That's where you stop. No need for herculean forces, they do more damange than good.

The last thing we need to remove before we can start filling up again is the oil filter. I recommend you change them every time you do an oil change. It helps with additional drainage as more used oil gets removed from the engine block (the oil in the filter and supply lines), plus a fresh filter is a good thing to start with.

Remove the stock filter with a wrench of you liking. Worst case, if none of your wrenches will work, you can use a long screw driver that you punch into the filter in order to loosen it. Messy and rude, but does the trick. Once you have switched to a KN303 you use the same 17mm socket to install and remove an oil filter. The main reason I go with the K&N filters.

Here is where the filter is located (already the KN303 installed in these pics):



And again to give you a better perspective:



Before you install the new oil filter let the oil drain for a few minutes. It will drip for a while. Another reason why I like the K&N oil filters (the 303 in particular) is because the come individually sealed. Not so with the Yamaha OEM filters. They are open in a box and if you have bad luck and one was sitting in a dirty warehouse, you have dust and dirt in there, before you even installed it for the first time.

Here is how the sealed K&N looks once out of the box:



Before you install it you have to remove that seal and fill it up with oil. I usually fill them up all the way to the thread, which takes a couple times until the oil settles in and all the air bubbles out. Once full it should look like this:



With the filter pre-filled you want to 'wetten' the o-ring with some oil. It makes installation easier and aids in getting to the proper torque. Now install the filter quickly by hand to minimize the amount of oil that drops out of the filter by holding it side ways. Screw it on all the way finger tight. Then use a torque wrench and that 17mm socket with an extension to torque the filter to 15-20Nm.

See the prior pictures for how it will look once the filter is on.

That concludes the draining procedure. Now we can move on to fill up the engine with fresh oil. As I said earlier, the specs call for 10W40 in normal climate and 20W50 in hot climates. Use regular oil (e.g. Yamalube) until 1500+ miles. Then you can switch to full synthetic like the Yamaha lube 15W50.

Always start on the low side when filling up and engine. It is a lot easier to add more oil, than to drain a portion. To start I fill in 1 gallon of 10W40 (in this case) and let is settle for a minute or two. I check the oil window to see if any oil is showing just yet.

In most cases - if you have done it like described in here, you will be able to ad another quart to it. Once you see some oil in the window, start the engine for 10 sec to allow the oil pump to circulate the oil and get rid of any air in the lines caused by the filter change.

Let the oil settle again. Check the oil level through the see through window on the right hand side lie here (the oil will be clear and clean after the oil change and darker before like in these pics):



And again from a great distance to aid in finding the right spot:



Again stay low on the oil level initially. Get it to the point where the oil barely reaches the low oil mark (the lower of the two lines next to the see through window. Once you get to that level, fire up the engine and let it warm up completely. Again a good practice is to let it run on the stand until the fan kicks in.

WARNING: Never run an engine inside a closed shop or garage. There is extreme danger of CO poisoning!

Once the engine and oil is hot, turn it off and let the oil settle for a couple minutes. Then open up the filler cap again and top off the oil until you reach the max level (or slightly below). Do not overfill the oil level as it can cause damage to various engine and emissions parts.

Measure the oil level when the bike is level, you cannot do this while the bike sits on the side stand. You always want to see a slight air gap on top of the oil.

That's it. Remember an engine oil change is only a portion of a regular service. There are other tasks required.

Disclaimer: Consult the service manual for detailed instructions. This guide is only intended as a supplement to aid in understanding how to perform an oil change. If you are in doubt about any step or not clear about how to proceed, consult the service manual or a professional mechanic or dealership. This article is for entertainment purposes only and does not replace experience and proper training. Incorrect or incomplete vehicle services can be dangerous. Consult you authorized service center.
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Last Edit: 5 years 4 months ago by fxstein.
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #2

Thanks man, this is a great post, informative and usefull. We should make it a sticky so it stays up top all the time.
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #3

Biff Ballbag wrote:
Thanks man, this is a great post, informative and usefull. We should make it a sticky so it stays up top all the time.

Already sticky from the get go... :winkwink:

Created a new Service and Maintenance section for it.
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #4

FX how many miles did you have on your max for first
oil change.
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #5

Thanks.

Very fine instructions.

Joe
05 Max
"Strength and Honor"
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #6

Kinda off the subject but since your in a warmer climate than me I was wondering if you think overheating will be a problem. I traded my 05 for the 09 and it always ran hot in town. I won't have to worry about the heat til summer. I do have some Engine Ice if I need it.
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #7

bolinger wrote:
FX how many miles did you have on your max for first
oil change.

300 and I will do another one at 600 as part of the first service.
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #8

Great initiative, thanks!
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #9

I am just happy to see some additional pics of the scooter's awesome engine!
Thanks!
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Re:New VMax Oil Change Step by Step w/ pictures 5 years 4 months ago #10

I already bought a Scotts billet oil filter with recleanable cartridge, it will look awesome.
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