9300 & I have gotten all the miles I can out of the stock clutch. More Vmax'rs will come to find out this is the weak area of our new Vmax. The bike has so much torque that when ridden to capacity, the stock diaphragm clutch leaves much to be desired. Since adding the Xpipe & Scorpion exhaust, I had noticed a marked improvement in torque @ around 5400rpm. Sure enough, this evening, while riding, Max started pulling right past the clutch leathers ability to hold at 5400rpm in 3rd, 4th & 5th. I hope the aftermarket guys get busy on this, and produce a better diaphragm or even a spring conversion kit, with maybe a "lock-up" feature. Here's the leathers before I soak them in oil over night. Tomorrow Max gets some new leathers, and I will experiment with the double diaphragm setup, like some of the Gen 1 owners did. I had hoped to make it till the 240 rim came in, but that didn't happen. It's still rideable, but not up to par & I don't want to get my feelings hurt by a Busa or B-King. We can't have that, so Max is getting freshened up in the morning

It should go smoothly, but I'll post up installation problems if there are any

They're nice enough to paint the tabs on the clutch plates so that you get them all stacked in the same direction the plates were stamped out. Notice the pink painted tabs. Here they're stacked correctly.



What NOT to do...



The "steels" or steel plates that go in between must be done similarly.

This is something I've been interested in learning to do myself. If you could post some pics of the process I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Some pages from Service manual

OEM makes clutches the weak point because it's cheaper to fix/replace as opposed to a tranny or middle gear. If you beef up the clutch it puts more stress on the tranny and final drive.


It looks like they put a different plate/disc up front. They did this in gen 1 and what we did was replace with the full size disk and plate. I would compare parts #8 and #9 with #10 and #11. Putting a second spring will help too.

Mark
#1098

Yes, the first plate is 1.6mm thick and can be replaced with 2.0. I got all 2.0mm thickness for the plates. Plate 2 can be changed for a 2.6mm, but that's only to bring it back to spec without changing all the discs. I wonder if I can double the spring & still pull it in easily?

The only suggestion I offer up is... DO use a torque wrench when your putting it back together. There is a lot of soft aluminum in them thar hills.
SDPEARLY

Installed my new clutch this week after less than 6000 miles on it.

I took some measurements to see how different the setup is from the Gen1 or the Warrior. Interestingly the clutch plates are smaller in diameter.

There are a few options:

You can double up the clutch spring. Makes it pull heavier but gives you a lot of extra bite. Have been running that setup on the Stratoliner for years.

Alternatively I took measurements for a setup similar to the SR-2 conversion for the Gen-1 and Warrior. A custom endplate with coil springs is easily doable but would require some testing. If no-one releases such a setup over the next few months, I might have a couple custom made for testing.

When you put the steel plates in MAKE SURE that there all going in the same way . There`s a sharp edge and a rounded edge . They all have to be facing the same way . I use sharp edge in . You can feel the differnce

You realize, you're comprimising the the Slipper Clutch when you double up the Clutch Spring ?

I'm not sure to which Point this will move, but be ensured, the Slipper Clutch will open up later than with one Stock Spring. Maybe a Lot later, maybe not at all.

I think we won't wait too long before OTEC offers a Lock-Up Clutch Mod. Might bite a big Chunk in the Wallet, though. But for you, B_M, it will be Money well invested. It was a big Improvement, even on my stock '99. I don't beleive this new Clutch will hold up 9,000 Miles like the first one did. Unless you change your Riding Style dramatically, of Course.