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TOPIC: 1996 Vmax clutch help

Re: 1996 Vmax clutch help 2 years 5 months ago #11

itgoes wrote:
monk wrote:
I lost clutch pressure. How do I build it back up so I can continue bleeding it?

IMO your waisting you time trying to bleed the system. If you lost pressure..and you had no clutch..and were low on fluid, then you have a leak. Most likely culprit is the slave cylinder...it needs to be rebuilt. Do you have a service manual? If not you need to get one, it will show you how to get to the slave. It's not a big job. You can order a rebuild kit on-line or from the dealer.

Mark

Yeah sounds like the slave. You might as well rebuild the master while you're at it.
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Re: 1996 Vmax clutch help 7 months 1 week ago #12

I'm having exactly the same problem with my '94 V-Max (clutch gradually starts failing to disengage). If I bleed it (really easy compared to a car), then it'll work for a couple of days until it leaks back down and gets air in the line.

I'm guessing that if you bleed it once and just keep it topped off (daily, regardless of how often you ride) then you can make it work for a while, but eventually you'll have to stop the leak. Mine appears to be a single bolt, something that might be a drain plug or something like that. Sounds exactly like what (maxout?) described with sanding the surface to get a good seal back.

tl;dr = I'd definitely suggest looking at the easier/cheaper/simpler solution of just tightening/fixing a single seal before you rebuild the slave cyl...and the master cyl...and replace the hoses...etc. If there's nothing wrong with the master/slave cylinders, then rebuilding them is actually the waste of time.
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Re: 1996 Vmax clutch help 7 months 1 week ago #13

If your fluid level is dropping on its own, then you must have a leak some place that should be fixed before you attempt to re-bleed the system.

Otherwise, check for an air bubble trapped up near the banjo bolt (where the hose connects to the handlebar master cylinder) Burp the air bubble out there BEFORE you try bleeding the entire system. Sometimes, a bubble can be hard to get completely out when you use traditional bleeding method from down where the bleeder valve is. Be sure to cover or remove any painted parts below the master before doing this as brake fluid can quickly damage paint.

After you get all the air out of your system, be sure to keep the fluid level up near the top of the sight window (viewed while in riding position, and bars straight ahead.)
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