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TOPIC: Valve Clearance

Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #31

Usually the exhaust valves tend to tighten up as they wear in to the seat so it is not uncommon to have too loosen up on an initial valve adjustment. Intakes tend to stay in spec for a loooong time or loosen just a hair. This is true for many makes and models of bike's, atv's,etc that i have done over the years, I have not worked on the max though.

Many years ago a guy brought in his new gixxer whatever to the shop with a no start complaint, he said it ran fine at the dragstrip (this bike had less than 200 miles) but wouldnt start the next morning. After performing a quick leak down on the motor all four cylinders were like 70+ % leakage. ALL the valves were so tight that none would seat anymore, I re shimmed them all and sent him down the road. My point from this is just please break in your new engines properly before floggin them down the 1320.
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Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #32

How long did it take me to complete the job. That's a really good question. Due to work and other obligations, I did the job piecemeal. It took me about three days on and off to get the engine out. This was my first time this deep on this bike and I studied the shop manual as I went. Took some pictures also. I was working on a rack, and was able to drop the engine down by myself, using a jack and blocks. Once the engine was sitting on the rack I rotated it clockwise 90 degrees which gave me easy access to the heads. After I measured all the clearances, I removed the exhaust cams and pulled the indicated buckets and shims. I was about a week into it at that point. Then it was another week until I could get to a friends shop and get into his shim box, to get the shims I needed. I didn't confirm this, but they look like the same shims the old Fazer 700 used. After that I installed the shims and cams, rechecked clearance, and put the engine back together. While the engine was out, I installed the braided stainless brake hoses. Much easier with the engine out! The hardest part was putting the engine back in. With the help of two stout friends, we lifted the engine, rotated it and lifted it back into position, and lined up a couple of bolts and got them started. After that I put the jack back under the engine. By the time I had the bike back together and running, it was about a month total.
When I do it next time, if I work straight through, the R&R will probably take me at least 20 hours, maybe more. Then add whatever time for the valve adjust. If I have to take out intake cams it will be considerably longer as the cam chain has to be dealt with.
A couple of things to consider; when measuring the valve clearance position the crankshaft exactly where the shop manual tells you, or you will not get an accurate reading! Secondly, don't rely on what the Gen I needed, to gauge the needs of the Gen II. My 104,000 mile Gen I didn't need any shims changed until 60,000 miles, and then it was two exhausts that were slightly on the tight side. Different animal. I agree that proper break in reduces wear and now I will see how the valve settings hold going forward.
I hope my experience is helpful.

Ken
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Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #33

Shim over bucket valves clearance will usually tighten up over time. When they get to tight valve will no longer close completly causing loss of compression.

The old rocker arm style valves were the ones that you would hear tapping after awhile due to top of valve and tappet adjuster getting hammered out after time and miles.

So don't expect to hear any tell tale valve train noise from your vmax to indicate when its time to have valve clearance adjusted.
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Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #34

Compression testing and a Leak down test will tell you if you have a leak thru the valves!
and the high revs will make the valves tighten up just plan on checking them and
keep them in adjustment so you don`t end up with a pitted or burned valve,
take care of it and ride it as hard as you wish. :vacation:


Shim over bucket 85 to 07 1200cc gen 1 cam wears on shim

Shim under bucket 09 to 12 1700cc gen 2 cam wears on bucket
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Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #35

byynow wrote:
I found it impossible to remove the rear valve cover with the engine in the bike. I can lift the cover enough where maybe you could check the clearance, but even that would be difficult. I had to remove the engine from the bike and when you do that, all you have left is a frame with the front end attached! If somebody knows how to get the rear valve cover off with the engine in the bike, I'd like to know that trick!

Ken

Ken,
Helen did not have to have her engine removed when pulling off the heads.

P1010011a.jpg
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Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #36

Front and side mounts have been removed allowing the front of the motor to swing thus allowing room to remove heads. It might as well be removed at that point. Should stuff some rags in those cylinder holes to keep dust and dirt out while waiting for heads to come back.
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Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #37

vmaxbrad wrote:
Compression testing and a Leak down test will tell you if you have a leak thru the valves!
and the high revs will make the valves tighten up just plan on checking them and
keep them in adjustment so you don`t end up with a pitted or burned valve,
take care of it and ride it as hard as you wish. :vacation:


Shim over bucket 85 to 07 1200cc gen 1 cam wears on shim

Shim under bucket 09 to 12 1700cc gen 2 cam wears on bucket

Well that explains why cams have to be removed for valve adjustment on the gen 2 Thats a step backward in my opinion. Hope those buckets are made of hard material.
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Re: Valve Clearance 2 years 9 months ago #38

maxout wrote:
vmaxbrad wrote:
Compression testing and a Leak down test will tell you if you have a leak thru the valves!
and the high revs will make the valves tighten up just plan on checking them and
keep them in adjustment so you don`t end up with a pitted or burned valve,
take care of it and ride it as hard as you wish. :vacation:


Shim over bucket 85 to 07 1200cc gen 1 cam wears on shim

Shim under bucket 09 to 12 1700cc gen 2 cam wears on bucket

Well that explains why cams have to be removed for valve adjustment on the gen 2 Thats a step backward in my opinion. Hope those buckets are made of hard material.

The reason that everyone went to this method is that as engine RPMs increased over the years it could not be insured that the shim on top of the bucket would stay in place. There were reports of engines spitting shims from the tops of the buckets and causing serious damage. With the shims under the buckets they cannot be spit out.
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